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Do It Yourself Home Window Removal, Installation and Replacment

    • 1). Place a crowbar between the drywall and the window's interior trim---the wood frame around the window. Pull the trim forward, off the wall. Take your time to avoid damaging the trim if you are reinstalling it. If your window has a stool (a portion of wood on the bottom which sticks out past the window, leave that in place for now.

    • 2). Go outside and place the crowbar between the house's siding and the exterior trim. Pull the trim off of the house. Once again, if the window has a stool, leave it in place for now.

    • 3). Place a metal cutting blade into a reciprocating saw. Slip the blade between the window and the window frame. Cut down the gap to cut through the nails securing the window in place. Remove the windows by pulling the bottom window's top edge forward then lifting the window's bottom edge out of the track. Slide the top window down and remove it the same way.

    • 4). Pull the wooden window frame out of the opening. If it is stuck, cut the window frame's bottom edge in half with the reciprocating saw. Pull one half of the window frame's bottom edge out toward you and peel the remaining sides out of the window opening.

    • 5). Look over the window opening to see if there are any holes or cracks in the wood. If so, use a putty knife to fill the hole or crack with a thin, smooth layer of exterior wood putty. Wait for the putty to harden per the manufacturer's directions. Use 120-grit sandpaper to sand the putty flush with the wood.

    • 6). Look for screws on the window opening's side boards. If you notice screws that appear to hold a rectangular piece of wood in place, remove the screws with a screwdriver. Take the rectangular wood pieces off the side boards and look inside. Old homes have sash weights, which are long metal tubes. Pull the sash weights out of each side board along with any old insulation found inside the space.

    • 7). Drill three 3/8-inch holes through the window opening's bottom board. Place one hole on either side, about 1 inch from the corners, and the third hole in the center. Repeat this process on the window opening's top board. Spray expanding insulation into each hole until it starts coming out. Spray insulation into the sash weight openings also. Wait for the insulation to dry per the manufacturer's directions. Remove extra insulation by scraping it away with a putty knife. Put the rectangular wood pieces back on the window opening's side boards and secure them with the screws you removed.

    • 8). Place a tube of silicone caulk in a caulk gun and cut off the tip with a utility knife. Spread a bead of caulk along the window opening's side boards where the boards will meet the exterior window trim. Spread two more beads of caulk along the window opening's bottom board.

    • 9). Lift the new window up to the window opening. Tilt the window so the bottom is resting on the opening's bottom edge. Push the top of the window in place. Hold the window in place with a 2-inch screw about 2 inches down from the top left corner. Lock the new window.

    • 10

      Hold a level against the window's bottom edge. Adjust the window so it is level and centered in the window opening. Insert wood shims at the corners to hold the window in place. Unlock the window and open it to ensure that it does not rub anywhere. Adjust the shims as needed.

    • 11

      Secure the new window in place with nails or screws. Some windows come with manufactured screw holes to tell you where to place the screws. Place a wooden shim behind each hole before inserting the nail or screw. If your window does not have screw holes, place a nail or screw near the top, middle and bottom of each of the window's sides.

    • 12

      Use a utility knife to score the wooden shims where they meet the window frame. Bend the shim back and forth until it breaks off, flush with the window frame.

    • 13

      Reattach the window trim around the window's interior and exterior using finishing nails. Use a narrow putty knife to apply a thin layer of wood filler over the trim's old nail holes. Paint or stain the putty to match the wood's finish.



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