Health & Medical Beauty & Style

How Fancy Color Diamonds Are Named

How Fancy Color Diamonds Are Named

The diamond pros at AMGAD specialize in natural fancy color diamonds and other fine gemstones. I was excited to their yes response when I asked staff to participate in this tutorial about color diamonds.

Visit every page if you want to learn color diamond pricing details, read facts about the special Four C's of color diamonds, find out all about popular pink diamonds and see pictures that will make you decide to add a fancy color diamond to your wish list.

What colors do fancy color diamonds exist in?

AMGAD: Natural colored diamonds come in all shades, hues and colors of the rainbow, with some of the most popular colors being shades and combinations of pink, blue, brown, yellow, orange, green and red. They are generally smaller than other diamonds and are used primarily in fashion jewelry. Yellow is the most commonly-occurring fancy color, while red, blue and green diamonds are extremely rare.

How can we interpret color names for fancy color diamonds?

AMGAD: The predominant hue is always expressed as a noun, such as "pink." Any secondary colors will precede the primary hue and are usually expressed with an "ish" at the end, such as purplish pink. This means that the primary hue of the diamond is pink with some hints of purple throughout.
If the grade is stated as two nouns--like "brown pink," it means that the two colors are virtually even throughout the diamond.

Four Cs of Color Diamonds

A Different Look at the Four Cs

Like other diamonds, the price of a color diamond depends in part on the Four Cs: color, cut, clarity and carat weight, but the factors used to judge those qualities differ somewhat from the Four Cs of colorless diamonds.

Tell us about color diamond color grading.

AMGAD: Fancy color diamonds are graded in two ways. The first factor considered is the stone's basic hue, such as pink, yellow, blue, green, etc.

The second is the diamond's intensity. Both color characteristics form the basis for determining a fancy colored diamond's worth.
Usually, the more intense the color, the rarer and more expensive the diamond will be. For example, a fancy light pink diamond costs less than a fancy vivid pink diamond of equal size, shape and clarity.

Is there a scale of diamond color saturation that we can refer to?

AMGAD: The GIA uses nine categories to grade color diamonds.
  1. Faint
  2. Very Light
  3. Light
  4. Fancy Light
  5. Fancy
  6. Fancy Dark
  7. Fancy Intense
  8. Fancy Deep
  9. Fancy Vivid

What about color undertones? How do they fit in to the diamond's worth?

AMGAD: A secondary undertone that enhances the color of a diamond is a plus. A secondary that detracts from the color is a negative. For instance:
  • a purplish pink color diamond can be worth more than a pink diamond, depending on the amount and intensity of purple
  • a brownish tint in a pink diamond usually decreases its value, and makes it a more affordable gemstone


Fancy Color Diamond Cuts and Shapes

Are cutting considerations different for fancy color diamonds than they are for white diamonds?

AMGAD: Like other diamonds, fancy colored diamonds achieve maximum brilliance when cut to the most ideal and accurate proportions. A good cut gives a fancy diamond its sparkle and helps to bring out the most intense color possible.
When cutting color diamonds, the cutter usually considers its inclusions, because they can enhance the diamond's color.

Facets and angles also add color to a diamond, so the cutter must think about what shape would bring out the gemstone's best appearance.

What shapes are most popular for color diamonds?


AMGAD: Round/brilliant, oval, princess and radiant color diamonds are in high demand. You'll also see color diamonds cut into fancy shapes such as hearts, trapezoids, Asschers and others. The scarcity of the fancy cuts helps those diamonds command a premium price.

Fancy Color Diamond Clarity

Color Diamond Clarity

Should we judge the clarity of a fancy color diamond the same way we do the clarity of a white diamond?


AMGAD: In a white diamond, clarity can make or break the stone, and VS clarity is usually ideal. But for fancy color diamonds, clarity is not the most important factor.

A fancy color diamond that is graded SI is still what is known as "eye clean," meaning that inclusions cannot be seen with the untrained, naked eye.

Additionally, small pinpoints or feathers do not usually affect fancy colors due to the deeper coloring of the diamond. Fancy diamonds of VS or better clarity are more uncommon in nature and therefore command a greater price.

What is the most important feature of a color diamond?


AMGAD: Color is the most important factor in determining a color diamond's value. Clarity is not as critical, and unless inclusions are directly on the diamond's table, most are not noticeable to the naked eye and will not affect the look of the diamond -- or its sparkle.

Inclusions on or near the girdle can be covered up with most settings. In some instances, an inclusion will even be the same color as the diamond, making it virtually invisible.

What type of inclusions do you see most in color diamonds?

In colored diamonds, the inclusions are often crystals that exhibit much the same color as the diamonds. To the untrained eye, these crystals blend right in with a diamond's color and can create the appearance of more brilliance.

Fancy Color Diamond Carat Weight

How does a fancy color diamond's carat weight affect its price tag?


AMGAD: The bigger it is, the more you will pay. Of course, you must compare oranges to oranges. For example, a 3 carat fancy yellow diamond with a VS2 clarity will cost more than a 2.5 carat fancy yellow diamond with an VS clarity. But a 2 carat fancy pink diamond with an SI clarity can cost more.

It is important to compare stones of similar characteristics when determining price.

Should consumers ask for a lab report for their color diamonds?

AMGAD: Many fine color diamonds will have an accompanying "diamond origin report" from one of the major international gem laboratories (IGI, GIA, EGL). Unless you are working with a trusted and reputable diamond dealer, we recommend one of these grading reports because they assure the diamond's natural color origin, or in other words, that it is actually a natural fancy diamond, not a color enhanced stone.

Pricing a Fancy Colored Diamond

How do retailers determine color diamond prices?

AMGAD: Retail pricing is generally set by observing the prices of the competition, but prices depend on several factors:
  • Hue (the rarer the color, the greater the cost)
  • Richness or saturation of the color (ranging from very light to light to intense to vivid)
  • Purity of the color (whether the color is bright and clear, or clouded)
  • Availability

How can consumers find the best price on colored diamonds?

AMGAD: The best prices are from "direct from the mine" wholesalers, people who secure either rough stone or newly cut diamonds directly from the source.

Not all wholesalers will sell to private buyers, but the ones who do can save their clients quite a bit of money.
Below are average wholesale market prices for 1 carat natural yellow and pink fancy colored diamonds in December, 2004.

Yellow Diamonds

  • Fancy Light: $2,200-$3,800
  • Fancy: $3,500-$5,500
  • Fancy Intense: $4,600-$9,000
  • Fancy Vivid: $8,500-$20,000
    Remember that:
    • Clarity, color distribution and cut determine where within the range a particular yellow diamond falls
    • Diamonds less than 0.80 carat can cost 10%-20% less
    • Exceptionally well cut stones and stones with a VVS or IF clarity can cost 10%-20% more
    • Secondary colors, such as brownish yellow, reduce cost

Pink Diamonds

  • Fancy Light: $10,000-$30,000
  • Fancy: $35,000-$100,000
  • Fancy Intense: $65,000-$150,000
  • Fancy Vivid: $100,000-$250,000+
    • Exceptions similar to those for yellow diamonds affect prices.


All About Pink Diamonds

Are pink diamonds rare?

AMGAD:Natural fancy pink diamonds are rare, and account for only a fraction of one percent of the Argyle Diamond Mine's entire production of pink diamonds. Pink diamonds mined in India, Brazil and Africa are usually lighter in color than the intensely pink Argyle diamonds.

So there are many shades of pink diamonds. How are they classified?

AMGAD: Pink diamonds are primarily divided into five color categories:
  • Pink


  • Purplish pink
  • Brownish pink
  • Orangey pink
  • Pink champagne

The richness of the pink diamond color is categorized by GIA's nine-tiered color intensity rating system (see page 2).

Of the pinks, which ones are most difficult to find?


AMGAD: Pink diamonds with no secondary coloring are the rarest and most expensive of all pink diamonds. This color of pink diamond ranges from a faint pink, resembling a white diamond with just a slight pink hue, to very sweet colored fancy pink, to an vivid pink, also referred to as a "raspberry pink," and finally a deep, almost reddish pink. The closer to red a pink diamond's coloration is, the more rare it is and thus the more expensive.

What's a desirable clarity for a pink diamond?


AMGAD: Most available pink diamonds will be I1-SI clarity, but VS, VVS and internally flawless pink diamonds are available from some wholesalers and usually command a premium price.

How do labs grade pink diamonds with a secondary color?

AMGAD: Pink diamonds with a secondary color are graded as purple pink or purplish pink, brown pink or brownish pink, and orange pink or orangey pink.
The color modifier slightly decreases the price of the diamond. Pink diamonds with a secondary coloring are more affordable and have a beauty all their own. They offer more people the opportunity to own a fancy color diamond.

Are "champagne pink" diamonds desirable?

AMGAD: Champagne diamonds with a secondary pink color are popular. When faced up, these stones display light to bold flashes of pink in their fire.
Champagne diamonds are not as expensive as white diamonds and are available in a sparkling range of champagne tones, from light to dark champagne and fancy cognac.

Why are yellow diamonds less costly than pinks?

AMGAD: Yellow diamonds occur more frequently in nature than pinks, so they are less expensive. They are white diamonds with such a high degree of yellow in them that the stone is declared a fancy.
A yellow diamond can be so light that it will be certified somewhere in the X to Z color range, making it more of a low end white diamond than a fancy color. Yellow diamonds of a high intensity, such as vivid or deep, are quite rare and therefore more expensive.

Which fancy color diamonds are most popular?


AMGAD: Yellow and pink diamonds are the most commonly sought after fancy color diamonds and most likely will continue to be for years to come.

An increased demand for orange, blue, and green colored diamonds show that these colors are trending. Since they are rare in nature, demand can shift prices upward, as supplies are limited.

Can you give us any setting tips for color diamonds?


AMGAD: The color of gold -- yellow, white, rose -- can enhance the color of the diamond.

For example, the diamonds in the ring on page 4 are set in 18K yellow and white gold. Yellow gold is used to showcase the yellow diamond, enhancing its color.

Which is the rarest fancy colored diamond?


AMGAD: Red. Diamonds that are certified as "red" are so rare that most diamond dealers have never seen one. Blue is the next rarest color. Blue diamonds are almost exclusively mined in Australia and South Africa.

Thank You

I'd like to say a huge Thank You! to AMGAD for answering my questions and for sharing photographs of their fancy color diamonds. You can see more of AMGAD's jewelry on their Web site.
AMGAD specializes in natural diamonds, but does carry a few treated diamonds. Treatments are always disclosed.

AMGAD also sells rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Visit AMGAD's Web site for more information about its products.



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