Framing the Entrance Door

• 1). Measure your new entrance door, and add an inch on either side and up top (for shims and caulking) to determine the size of the rough opening. Mark the width and height of the rough opening on the sole plate (horizontal 2---4 at the base of the wall frame) and any 2---4 studs within and beside the doorframe. Draw lines on the sole plate 1.5 inches and 3 inches from each side of the rough opening to show the place where the studs will go to create the doorframe. NOTE: Measure height from the floor rather than the sole plate.
  
  
• 2). Cut two 2---4 studs to match the distance between the sole and top plates in the wall frame. Place these "king" studs so their outside edge is at the 3-inch mark you drew in step 1. Check them with a level, and then nail diagonally (toenail) through them with 10d framing nails to anchor them to the plates.
  
  
• 3). Cut two 2---4 studs to match the height of the rough opening. Nail each of these "trimmer" or "jack" studs to a king stud at the 1.5-inch mark from step 1.
  
  
• 4). Cut lumber (usually a 2---4, but check local building codes for any specific requirements) to match the width of the rough opening. Set this "header" atop the trimmer studs and nail it in place.
  
  
• 5). Cut a 2---4 to match the distance between the top plate and header. Set this "cripple" stud atop the header midway between the king studs, and toenail it at the top and bottom.
  
  
• 6). Cut through the sole plate at each edge of the rough opening, and then remove the cut portion, leaving the opening clear from header to floor.
  
  

Hanging the Entrance Door

• 1). Set the new door into the rough opening. Double-check to be sure there is an even gap of 1/2 to 1 inch all around. Take the door back out, place lines of caulking on the bottom to seal it to the floor, and set the door in place again.
  
  
• 2). Insert wood shims in between the king studs and jambs. Be sure to shim near the hinges, as well as every 6 to 8 inches all around the door. Using a level and square, double-check that the door is still aligned correctly once the shims have it securely in place. You can use a pry bar to help you make minor adjustments.
  
  
• 3). Use 16d casing nails to drive through the jambs and shims, securing the door to the trimmer studs. Double-check the door with a level occasionally to be sure you haven't driven it askew.
  
  
• 4). Spray foam insulation in between the jambs and trimmer studs all around the door. Once the insulation has expanded and dried, attach casing or molding around the door (inside and outside) with casing nails or brad nails.
  
  
• 5). Following the manufacturer's instructions, use the pre-drilled holes in the door and jamb to install a lockset.