How to Make a Wooden Pool Deck
- 1). Choose a pool deck plan that has clear, concise, easy-to-understand drawings done to scale; a complete list of all materials, including dimensions and quantities; and step-by-step instructions written in layman's terms and that suits your available resources while meeting your needs.
- 2). Decide: treated lumber decking--20 year-life span, inexpensive, easy to cut, can be stained or painted. Or a wood/plastic composite--longer life span, variety of textures and colors, never needs paint or stain. Composite sounds too good to be true? Consider: Four times the cost, twice the weight as conventional treated decking.
- 3). When choosing tools, remember: You won't regret buying a quality tool, but you will regret the cheap ones. Get the best your budget allows. If possible get a professional grade rechargeable drill. Porter Cable, DeWalt, Makita and Milwaukee are good brands. Avoid tools with extra gadgets--go for extra torque, amperage and battery life.
- 1). Using a tape measure, mark out the deck footprint according to plans with stakes and twine. Use the rule of 3, 4, 5 in Resources for right angles. Lay out posts by placing colored tape on your twine in the desired position for each post. Use a plumb bob or bolt on a string to mark exact positions for postholes. Mark the spot with a spray of chalk line chalk for clear visibility and in case your twine sags.
- 2). Use the heaviest posthole digger you can lift. It will cut work in half. Dig each posthole 12 inches deep or one-fourth the above-ground height of the finished post and 10 to 12 inches across.
Set full-length 4-by-4 posts in each posthole; you can cut them to height more accurately later. Before pouring concrete, attach your outside framing to the posts to hold them upright. Make sure they are in the positions indicated on the plan. Lag bolt frame to posts. Complete the outside frame of the deck before adding cross members (joists).
Install joists spaced16 inches center to center. Use joist hangers for a stronger deck.
Attach one side of each hanger using1 1/4-inch, treated deck screws; insert joist, and then attach other side. - 3). Cement posts. Mix concrete in posthole with scrap lumber and water straight from the garden hose. Use half an 80-pound bag of cement per hole. Use post level to plumb post, and make final adjustments before concrete sets. Add temporary braces using scrap lumber until the concrete dries.
- 1). Adding stairs before installing decking is essential. Lugging material up and down a ladder is no fun. Always use the best lumber available for stairs, and follow plans carefully. Stair treads can never be too stout. Reinforce them well. Handrail uprights should run all the way to the ground wherever possible. As with framing all structural members of stairs should be treated lumber.
- 2). Start decking from a corner, moving onto deck as you go. Use two 1 5/8-inch treated outdoor deck screws in each joist. Stagger board ends. Space rows according to manufacturer's instructions. A chisel and hammer are handy for shifting boards into position. Set drill clutch to avoid sinking screws too deep. Use full lengths to save time. Let ends hang over end of deck, mark a straight line from one side of the deck to the other side, 1 inch past the outside frame, with chalk line. Cut off overhang with circular saw in one motion providing a clean straight edge.
- 3). Using a tape measure and chalk line, mark rail posts to height. Start at one end of a section and pull the chalk line from a mark 30 inches above the deck to the opposite corner post 30 inches above the deck. Snap the line against all posts in the section for an even, straight line. Cut posts off at the mark with circular saw. Install guardrails on all sides of deck. Add a gate at top of stairs for pets and children. Banister spindles should be no more than 4 inches apart for safety. Consider using a composite top rail to avoid painful splinters. Recycle your decking cutoffs into planters or benches for a nice finishing touch.
