Replacing Damaged Boards

• 1). Remove an entire damaged board, not just part of it. Set the depth of a circular saw blade to slightly more than the thickness of the flooring and cut lengthwise along the board from end to end, stopping just short of the boards adjacent to it. Finish the cut with a chisel, and pry the board out with a pry bar.
  
  
• 2). Cross-cut a replacement board to the correct length, cutting off the grooved end. Set the depth of a table saw blade to half the thickness of the flooring and cut the bottom of the groove off this board. Cut a rabbet, or notch, in the cut end of the board about 5/8 inch wide so you can lay it over the tongue of the board next to it.
  
  
• 3). Cut out the moisture barrier in the subfloor under the replacement board with a utility knife. Spread construction glue on the subfloor with a trowel and use a small wooden stick, like a popsicle stick, to spread adhesive on the tongues of the floorboards.
  
  
• 4). Set the replacement board in place and push it down so it is in contact with the glue. Place a heavy weight on the board and leave it there overnight so the glue can set.
  
  

Sanding the Floor

• 1). Spread latex floor filler over the entire floor with a rubber float such as you would use for spreading tile grout. Thin the filler with water until it is almost pourable. Spread it with a circular motion, working it into all cracks and gaps. Let it dry overnight.
  
  
• 2). Sand the floor with a drum sander. Use 50-grit paper for the first pass, then sand again with an 80-grit and finish with 100-grit. Vacuum the sanding dust away after each pass. Sand the edges with an edging sander, using the same progression of paper.
  
  
• 3). Scrape away finish in the corners, near door jambs, and any other area you can't reach with the edger, using a floor scraper. Sand the areas you scrape with an orbital sander fitted with 80-grit paper.
  
  
• 4). Vacuum the floor after you have finished sanding and tack it with a damp cloth.
  
  

Refinishing the Floor

• 1). Spread stain on the floor with a rag, starting at the corner furthest from the exit. Spread the stain in sections and wipe off the excess with a separate rag before it has a chance to dry. Let the stain dry or several hours.
  
  
• 2). Spread sealer on the floor with a floor finish applicator, then let it dry for the time specified on the container. If it is water-based, this will be one or two hours. If it is solvent-based, it may be overnight.
  
  
• 3). Sand the sealer with a floor buffer fitted with a 120-grit sanding screen. Vacuum the dust away and wipe the floor with a damp cloth.
  
  
• 4). Spread a coat of finish and let it dry for the specified amount of time, then screen it with the floor buffer. Vacuum and tack the floor, then spread another coat. Do this as many times as it takes to get a satisfactory finish.
  
  
• 5). Replace the sanding screen on the buffer with a lamb's wool buffing attachment and buff the final finish until it shines.