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How to Fertilize Tall Fescue

    • 1). Perform a soil test that gives results for pH, potassium and phosphorus. Most cooperative extension service offices offer soil test kits with instructions. Take samples from several different areas of your lawn or pasture, put them in the provided container and submit them for the test.

    • 2). Examine your pasture for legumes such as ladino or red clover. You may recognize legumes because they have broad leaves in sets of three, unlike the narrow, single leaves of grass. "Tall fescue stands containing over 30 percent legume will show little benefit from applying nitrogen for increased production," according to West Virginia University extension specialist Edward B. Rayburn, because legumes already contribute nitrogen to the soil.

    • 3). Multiply the amount of phosphorus and potassium recommended by the soil test times the number of acres or square feet of your pasture or lawn. The soil test will usually recommend amounts per acre or per 1,000 square feet. Also calculate the amount of lime recommended by the soil test to bring the soil pH to between 5.8 and 6.5.

    • 4). Spread the recommended amounts of phosphorus, potassium and lime in the fall, using either liquid or solid fertilizer and an appropriate fertilizer spreader, either pulled behind a tractor or pushed by hand. You may also fertilize a small lawn with a hose attachment. If you're fertilizing a lawn or don't have enough legumes in a pasture to add sufficient nitrogen on their own, also spread 50 to 100 lbs. of nitrogen per acre or 1 to 2 lbs. per 1,000 square feet. Once-a-year fertilizing is enough for a pasture, but lawns can use additional fertilizing to help them stay green year round.

    • 5). Spread 1/2 lb. of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet on a lawn again in February and in late spring, in addition to the fall fertilizing.



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