Preparing to Install Ceramic Tile

• 1). Turn off water to the toilet. Flush it to empty the bowl and the tank. Remove the toilet by unscrewing the bolts on either side of it with a wrench. Stuff a rag into the drain to keep debris from falling into it.
  
  
• 2). Remove the baseboard from the perimeter of the room with a pry bar.
  
  
• 3). Slide a stud finder on the floor to locate the joists. Measure how far apart they are with a tape measure. Pull out one of the heat ducts from the floor to measure the thickness of the subflooring. To properly support ceramic flooring, you need at least 1 1/8-inch-thick subfloors for joists spaced 16 inches apart. The subflooring needs to be 1 1/2 inch thick for 24-inch joists. Skip this step if you have concrete subfloors.
  
  
• 4). Cut cement backer board to fit the dimension of the room, using a drywall saw. The backer board should give you the desired thickness of the subfloor.
  
  
• 5). Lay the backer board pieces out so that no two joints align. Allow at least a 1/8-inch gap between pieces and along the walls.
  
  
• 6). Mix thinset mortar according to package directions. Place the thinset under the backer board with a 1/4-inch notched trowel. Pick the pieces of backer board off the floor, spread the thinset and then replace the backer board. Embed mesh tape along the seams of the backer board.
  
  
• 7). Set screws in place along the perimeter of each piece of backer board. The screws need to be long enough to penetrate into the wood subflooring, but not necessarily the joists. Place screws 6 inches apart around the edges of the backer board and 8 inches apart in the middle of the backer board. Ensure that the screw heads are flush with the backer board.
  
  

Laying the Ceramic Flooring

• 1). Measure the center point of each wall. Use those measurements to use a chalk line to create a grid on the bathroom floor that marks the center point of the floor.
  
  
• 2). Lay out tile along the gridline, starting with one side of the center axis. Place tiles along the chalk line and then fill in the section. Repeat for each quadrant. Use spacers to keep rows straight.
  
  
• 3). Create a paper or cardboard template for any odd size pieces of tile. Cut straight edges of tile by laying a straight edge tool across the tile. Draw a glass cutter along the length of the tile to score it. Gently fold the tile in two along the scored line to finish the cut. You can also use a diamond blade wet saw to make straight cuts. Cut curves in ceramic tile with tile nippers. Mark the pattern on the tile. Take small "bites" with the tile nipper until you remove the unwanted portion of the tile.
  
  
• 4). Pick up a few tiles in one corner of the bathroom. Apply a layer of thinset with the notched trowel. Set the tiles back into position. Repeat until you have thinset under all the tiles. Put spacers between the tiles to help you maintain straight lines. Allow the thinset to dry.
  
  
• 5). Remove the spacers. Add expansion rings to the toilet drain. The rings should be flush with the floor's surface or slightly above it.
  
  
• 6). Mix tile grout according to package directions. Use a grout float to work the grout into the spaces between the ceramic tiles. Do not put grout in the areas around the perimeter of the room.
  
  
• 7). Wipe the ceramic tiles clean with a damp sponge. Keep the water clean. You may need to wipe the tiles several times to remove the haze created by the grout. Allow the grout to cure overnight.
  
  
• 8). Reinstall the toilet, putting a fresh wax ring under it.
  
  
• 9). Attach the baseboard to the walls, using a hammer.