Your Freshwater Aquarium Filter - Is One Better Than Another?
Freshwater Aquarium Filter - Is One Better Than Another? There are two factors to contend with when choosing a freshwater aquarium filter; first is the type of filtration, second is the equipment providing the filtration.
Starting with the filter type, there are two essential types every aquarium needs to maintain a healthy environment, those being biological and mechanical.
Chemical and germicidal are two additional forms that can be useful in many situations.
Biological - the removal of ammonia via the nitrification cycle, the most important of all.
Simply put, "good" bacteria, called nitrifying bacteria, grow in colonies on most surfaces of your aquarium where there is a water flow supplying them with oxygen and food.
Their "food" is the ammonia secreted from your fish plus other decaying organic matter, usually excess food.
These good bacteria convert the ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate, to be removed by you during your scheduled water changes.
Mechanical - the removal of larger debris floating in the aquarium by filtering the water through sponges, screens or other materials.
Removing larger particles before they enter the nitrogen cycle helps reduce available nutrients which can lead to the development of algae.
Chemical - the employment of carbon, zeolite or other similar products to remove chemical contaminates from the water.
It serves the most value in new aquariums and in those that have underwent recent medication treatments; in established, well maintained units, or those with live plants, carbon is not necessarily needed.
Germicidal/Algaecidal - Adding a UV sterilizer to your water filtration flow will kill most suspended bacteria as well as many of the viruses found in the water, it assists in clearing green water (algae blooms), aids in control of parasitic agents and breaks down oxidizers in the water.
As to the "forms" of filter equipment, the list is extensive.
We will start with the more basic and work our way up form there.
In-Tank Filters - also called corner or box filters, they were among the first filter designs used many years past.
Normally powered by an air pump, they can provide excellent biological and mechanical filtration; they are cost effective and will accept a variety of filter media.
The most common uses today are for breeding and hospital tanks.
Under Gravel Filters (UGF) - the UGF has also been around since the beginning and although still used, has been mostly replaced with more effective and trouble free designs.
A UGF is a plastic filter placed under the gravel, creating an open space.
Powered by an air pump, water is pulled through the gravel into this space and then lifted up tubes back into the aquarium, creating a circular flow.
It is an excellent biological filter and provides adequate mechanical filtration; the problem is that it does require maintenance and most hobbyists are not aware of this.
Over time the gravel will compact and become clogged, reducing or even stopping the water flow.
It also is not compatible with live plants rooted in the gravel.
Power Filters - Undeniably the most popular of all filtration systems.
They are reasonably priced, easy to set up, a breeze to maintain, and they satisfy the mechanical and chemical filtration requirements.
By choosing a model that includes a bio-wheel, you include biological filtration as well.
The typical model hangs on the back of the aquarium, is readily accessible and the water returns can increase oxygen content by disrupting the aquarium surface.
Canister Filters - Best suited for medium to large tanks, they are very effective in providing the biological and mechanical filtration.
Carbon can be included if desired and because they are hidden away in the aquarium stand it is very easy to include a UV sterilizer in the water flow.
Rated the best form by many, filtration capacity is dramatically increased by forcing water through large volumes of media; you can also put multiple types of media in the canisters for special needs.
The addition of a bio-wheel on the return line further enhances the biological capacity.
Although not as friendly to clean as the power filters, advancements in technology over the last 15 years has simplified the connection system for easier removal and cleaning.
There are other freshwater aquarium filter designs, such as trickle filters, fluidized bed filters and more; mostly used for larger and/or special application purposes.
In conclusion, if you want a healthy, easily maintained aquarium you absolutely must have adequate biological and mechanical filtration systems in place.
Go with a canister filter if you can afford one, if not opt for the ever popular and versatile power filter for your freshwater aquarium.
Starting with the filter type, there are two essential types every aquarium needs to maintain a healthy environment, those being biological and mechanical.
Chemical and germicidal are two additional forms that can be useful in many situations.
Biological - the removal of ammonia via the nitrification cycle, the most important of all.
Simply put, "good" bacteria, called nitrifying bacteria, grow in colonies on most surfaces of your aquarium where there is a water flow supplying them with oxygen and food.
Their "food" is the ammonia secreted from your fish plus other decaying organic matter, usually excess food.
These good bacteria convert the ammonia into nitrite and then into nitrate, to be removed by you during your scheduled water changes.
Mechanical - the removal of larger debris floating in the aquarium by filtering the water through sponges, screens or other materials.
Removing larger particles before they enter the nitrogen cycle helps reduce available nutrients which can lead to the development of algae.
Chemical - the employment of carbon, zeolite or other similar products to remove chemical contaminates from the water.
It serves the most value in new aquariums and in those that have underwent recent medication treatments; in established, well maintained units, or those with live plants, carbon is not necessarily needed.
Germicidal/Algaecidal - Adding a UV sterilizer to your water filtration flow will kill most suspended bacteria as well as many of the viruses found in the water, it assists in clearing green water (algae blooms), aids in control of parasitic agents and breaks down oxidizers in the water.
As to the "forms" of filter equipment, the list is extensive.
We will start with the more basic and work our way up form there.
In-Tank Filters - also called corner or box filters, they were among the first filter designs used many years past.
Normally powered by an air pump, they can provide excellent biological and mechanical filtration; they are cost effective and will accept a variety of filter media.
The most common uses today are for breeding and hospital tanks.
Under Gravel Filters (UGF) - the UGF has also been around since the beginning and although still used, has been mostly replaced with more effective and trouble free designs.
A UGF is a plastic filter placed under the gravel, creating an open space.
Powered by an air pump, water is pulled through the gravel into this space and then lifted up tubes back into the aquarium, creating a circular flow.
It is an excellent biological filter and provides adequate mechanical filtration; the problem is that it does require maintenance and most hobbyists are not aware of this.
Over time the gravel will compact and become clogged, reducing or even stopping the water flow.
It also is not compatible with live plants rooted in the gravel.
Power Filters - Undeniably the most popular of all filtration systems.
They are reasonably priced, easy to set up, a breeze to maintain, and they satisfy the mechanical and chemical filtration requirements.
By choosing a model that includes a bio-wheel, you include biological filtration as well.
The typical model hangs on the back of the aquarium, is readily accessible and the water returns can increase oxygen content by disrupting the aquarium surface.
Canister Filters - Best suited for medium to large tanks, they are very effective in providing the biological and mechanical filtration.
Carbon can be included if desired and because they are hidden away in the aquarium stand it is very easy to include a UV sterilizer in the water flow.
Rated the best form by many, filtration capacity is dramatically increased by forcing water through large volumes of media; you can also put multiple types of media in the canisters for special needs.
The addition of a bio-wheel on the return line further enhances the biological capacity.
Although not as friendly to clean as the power filters, advancements in technology over the last 15 years has simplified the connection system for easier removal and cleaning.
There are other freshwater aquarium filter designs, such as trickle filters, fluidized bed filters and more; mostly used for larger and/or special application purposes.
In conclusion, if you want a healthy, easily maintained aquarium you absolutely must have adequate biological and mechanical filtration systems in place.
Go with a canister filter if you can afford one, if not opt for the ever popular and versatile power filter for your freshwater aquarium.
